The Cotentin

Sometimes known as the Cherbourg Peninsula, the Cotentin is the peninsula in France that sticks out and points in the direction of England like an outstretched finger.

The Cotentin is the largest part of the Manche Department in Lower Normandy.

The Cotentin is a well-kept secret. There are miles of beautiful beaches, rocky coves and dramatic landscape.

There is an air of the mysterious where one gets the sense of having gone back in time.

Think Cornwall with better weather, more tropical plants and certainly fewer visitors and you get an idea of the style of the Cotentin. Magical, laid back peaceful and slightly weird.

The South includes the iconic Mont St Michel - situated just within the Cotentin much to the annoyance of Brittany - but undisputedly on Norman soil!

In addition, the historic town Avranches and 1920s resort Granville famous in the jazz age as a chic Parisian holiday destination - still retaining much of its former grandeur and elegance.

The West Coast features miles of gentle slopes and sandy dune laden beaches of the Atlantic coastline.

Barneville Carteret is situated here along with a selection of pleasant little resort towns such as Pirou Plage and is a popular holiday location with windsurfers.

The flat coastal aspect of the west coast changes towards the North end where steep granite cliffs form the rocky and dramatic coastline of Cap Le Hague

The Cap is the most north westerly point of the Cotentin and faces out across the sea to the Channel Islands.

The North end of the Cotentin is the hub of the commercial centre of the region, with the port of Cherbourg squarely placed in the centre.

The surrounding coast here is full of beautiful and dramatic sea walks, many following ancient historic routes past tiny sandy coves, rocks and lighthouses

The East coast of the Cotentin is headed by Barfleur, today a lively fishing village and rated among the 12 most beautiful towns in France.

Further down the East coast you will find St Vaast la Hougue with its giant Harry Potter style castles that jut out into the sea

The coast here features some of Normandy’s best sea food caught locally and daily.

A few kilometres further south is St Mere Eglise the famous town that was liberated early in the battle of Normandy where WW2 American parachutist John Steele got caught on the church tower and survived the battle stuck there.

There is still a paratrooper displayed hanging from the tower to this day.

The eastern sea coast of the Cotentin ends with the D day invasions at Utah Beach where its boundary moves inland towards St Lo the main city of the Manche.

The southern edge of the Cotentin is marked by St Hilaire du Harcourt and includes the site of many of the final battles of the D Day Normandy Invasion, before joining up again with Mont St Michael

The Cotentin has been an inspiration for many great painters including Millais and Paul Signac.

The Cotentin is rich in history and is full of the reminders of the Second World War, many of which are still dotted around the countryside.

The D Day story looms large with St Mere Eglise – the first town to be liberated in France as well as the German War defences and museums and sadly, the many War cemeteries

However, there is more to the Cotentin than WW2 interest. This area is steeped in history that dates from Roman times.

The area gets its name from Roman emperor Constantine – and the region is littered with ancient pilgrim routes and religious icons and the occasional standing stone.

In the town of Valognes there are some impressive remains of Roman Bath houses at Alauna.

The Normans are the areas most famous inhabitants, William the Conqueror King of England sailed from here but the name Normans were not originally French.

This is because the area was colonised by the Vikings in the ninth century - hence the name Normans or Norsemen for short.

The Norman inhabitants are famous throughout France for never giving a straight answer and speaking a French form of patois that has its roots in the age of the Vikings.

Despite the fabulous scenery and laid-back charm, the Cotentin remains overlooked by many English visitors who tend to speed on by.

And there is much more to the Cotentin besides history and invasions.

Many of the French regard this small northern area as being veiled in mystery, and even in France it is fairly unknown and misunderstood.

The Sea food of the area is second to none with many local specialities, mussels and oysters are one of its famous exports.

At low tide, you can see people out collecting seafood (pêche à pied or fishing by foot) and picking up the evening’s meal sometimes with nothing more than buckets and spades.

If you like eating well the Cotentin is your oyster!

However dining out in the Cotentin is also pleasure that must rate as high as anywhere in France.

The reason is simple. Normandy produces a lot of the food!

Meat and dairy products, arguably the best cheese in the world - the regional speciality is Camembert, Crème fraîche and seafood, locally caught fresh fish as well as a sophisticated cuisine that still keeps to a traditional French style.

France is changing fast as a country and is adopting the diet and lifestyle of a more Anglo Saxon way of life.

The Cotentin, despite its proximity to England remains firmly old French. Yes, you can find fast food, get a fast internet connection and all the things essential to modern life

But one gets the sense if that all disappeared tomorrow it wouldn’t make much difference.

Cotentin Normandy France

The Cotentin

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